The first part of my journey came to an end just when I made new friends. I said goodbye to my four Korean companions as we ate our last shakshuka for breakfast. I gave them my email address and Kim gave me the map of his home town and my name written in Korean.
Day 7
It took me much more time to leave Logrono than I planned. I did not know that the city is so big. I spent first three hours walking its streets. Boring! Later, it didn’t get any better, so after walking alone on the asphalt road to the town of Navarette, I decided to take a break. It was almost noon. I bought two packs of cakes for one euro and a can of coke. I remember that I ate all of this stuff and I even felt a little bit sick. Gluttony, a terrible thing. On this day practically all pilgrims leaving Logrono finished their journey in Najera, about 28 kilometers away. However, I decided to reach Azofra located 6 kilometers further. The last part of the route was really picturesque, but 34 kilometers that I walked that day were definitely more than enough.
So I felt quite happy when I reached Albergue Municipal. Unfortunately, life is not that easy. I was quite surprised that the gate did not let me in. I took off my backpack, smoked a cigarette and decided to wait. After about 15 minutes I knew that it did not make any sense. I found the phone number on the gate. – Hello – I said timidly – I am in front of Albergue Municipal in Azofra and it is closed. – No, open. – said my interlocutor with convication – No, I am sure that it is closed. – No, open. – I heard some irritation. – Hmm… but I am trying to open the gate and… – Suddenly, my interlocutor flooded me with Spanish words. Fortunately, I managed to pick up one – “iglesia”. I thanked him politely and went to find the church. When I passed the main door, I noticed a small building glued to one of the side walls. No information, no sign, nothing, nada. I knocked. Silence. I pulled the handle and went inside. – Hi – I said. Silence. I was the only pilgrim there. I took off my backpack and drank two large sips of water. I looked around the room. A large table for about 20 people covered with a yellow oilcloth. Various pictures and posters. And a stove in the corner. – Perfect! I can eat something warm – I thought. I also noticed a piece of paper and a can on the table. When I glanced at it I understood that probably I will be alone that night. The last person registered here a week earlier. I decided to unpack and make something to eat. I carried my backpack into the one of the two rooms. Definitely it was not a three star hotel. Paint was falling from the ceiling, dirty mattress saw a lot. The place looked like a shelter for the homeless. Maybe it was. Before eating I decided to take a shower. Hot water? I could dream about that. After a very quick shower I ate dinner and at 10 p.m. I closed the front door. It was terribly cold so I went into my sleeping bag, dressed in a polar blouse and a cap. I put the earplugs in my ears and went to sleep. I woke up several times at night because of the church bells.
Day 8
Next morning I woke up early and left at 7:30 a.m. The town looked completely empty. The beginning of the road that day was full of fields and small, not really charming, villages. The terrain became more and more flat.
I made the main stop in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Nothing special. Two hours later, at 1:30 p.m., I decided to use wonderful weather and read a bit. I spent about an hour with two very nice cats.
The rest of the route was a fight with a very strong wind. I also left La Rioja region and entered the largest autonomous community of Spain – Castilla y Leon. I stayed in Belorado, in the private albergue – Belorado El Corro. Quite a nice place with a positive hospitalero, who was constantly apologizing for his English. I was glad that he was able to talk at all. Due to the fact that I was unable to establish any relationship with two other Spanish pilgrims in albergue I ate noodles with four cheese sauce alone. Then I drank San Miguel beer, delicious as always, and prepared some weird dessert – cookies in milk. I read a little in the dining room and went to bed.
Day 9
Another morning greeted me with rain. The yellow fields and a lot of mud.
I stumbled upon an oasis which in the summer must be a very pleasant place, with hammocks, a bar and a lot of attractions. Unfortunately, in the winter, there is not as much to offer, so after a short break I moved on. At 6 p.m. I was in Atapuerca. It took me a while to find the albergue next to the bar. I was convinced that I would have all the albergue for myself. However, after a while I heard some voices. It turned out that my companion would be a young Austrian who had to stay in Atapuerca because of… the hangover. It was his fifth Camino and he was really cool with it. We went to the bar, drank a coffee and a beer and went to sleep.
Day 10
Next morning we started with headlights at 7 a.m. Around 9:30 a.m. we stopped for breakfast in the Ultima Parada bar. At 11:30 a.m. we were already in Burgos. Quite big city with 180,000 citizens.
We sat in a bar opposite to the albergue. I planned to stay there, Christian decided to go further. After 12:00 we said goodbye. I ordered another beer and got lost in Knausgard’s “My Struggle”. Later that day I met another group of fantastic people.
